TRAVEL FEATURE Out of Town Melbourne, Australia Andrew Collins | August 07, 2006 You'll find loads of hip cafes and restaurants in Melbourne's funky Fitzroy neighborhood, including the inviting Fitz Cafe - Photo by Andrew Collins The Little Black Book Base (17 Carlisle St., 3-9536-6109) Boccone (277 Carlisle St., 03-9527-9223) Brunetti (194-204 Faraday St., 3-9347-2801) Cafe Di Stasio (31 Fitzroy St., 3-9529-3999) Candy Bar (162 Greville St., 3-9529-6566) Chocolate Buddha (Federation Square, Flinders and Swanston Sts., 3-9654-5688) Claypots (213 Barkly St., 3-9534-1282) Diva (153 Commercial Rd., 3-9824-2800) DT's Hotel (164 Church St., 3-9428-5724) Ezard at Adelphi (187 Flinders La., 3-9639-6811) Fitz Cafe (357 Brunswick St., 3-9417-5794) Glasshouse Hotel (51-55 Gipps St., 3-9419-4748) Glick's (330 Carlisle St., 03-9527-2198) Greyhound Hotel (1 Brighton Rd., 3-9534-4189) Il Fornaio (2 Acland St., 03-9534-2922) Laird Hotel (149 Gipps St., 3-9417-2832) Las Chicas (Carlisle St., 03-9531-3699) Le Meridien at Rialto (495 Collins St., 3-9620-9111) Market Hotel (143 Commercial Rd., 3-9826-0933) Melbourne Visitors Centre (Flinders and Swanston Sts., 3-9658-9658) Metropolitan Hotel (263 William St., 3-9670-1385) Novotel St. Kilda (14-16 The Esplanade, 3-9525-5522) Park Hyatt Melbourne (1 Parliament Sq., 3-9224-1234) The Peel (113 Wellington St., 3-9419-4762) Polly Bar (401 Brunswick St., 3-9419-6539) Prince of Wales Hotel (2 Acland St., 3-9536-1111) Pure South (Shop GR2, River Level, Southgate, 3-9699-4600) Q+A party (Builders Arm Hotel, Gertrude and Grove Sts., 3-9419-0818) Red Tongue Cafe (275 Brunswick St., 3-9415-9244) 7 Apples (75 Acland St., 3-9537-3633) Soul Mama (St. Kilda Seabaths, 10-18 Jacka Blvd., St. Kilda, 3-9525-3338) Star Hotel (176 Hoddle St., 3-9417-2696) Ti Amo (303 Lygon St., 3-9347-5759) Tourism Victoria's gay/lesbian website Trade (9 Peel St., 3-9417-6700) Wet on Wellington (162 Wellington St., 03-9419-2010) Xchange Hotel (119 Commercial Rd., 3-9867-5144) Nearly all gay North Americans who make it to Australia end up spending time in Sydney, but relatively few ever make it to the nation's mecca for culture, Melbourne. This city of roughly 4 million claims an amazing theater scene, a vast range of first-rate live-music venues, highly regarded art museums and galleries, and cutting-edge events (including late January's Midsumma Festival, which showcases visual and performing arts; February's Melbourne Fashion Festival; March's Queen Film Festival; and November's Fringe Festival). In terms of gay-friendliness, this city of vibrant, lively neighborhoods ranks among the most progressive and inviting places on the planet. And hey, it's also home to Kylie Minogue and Dame Edna, two queer icons. Food lovers extol Melbourne's wealth of fine restaurants, known particularly for excellent ethnic fare (from Italian to Asian). Java addicts will find that coffeehouses are just as popular here as they are in Seattle or Toronto, and oenophiles appreciate the city's love of fine wines, which is evident in the great selections at both affordable and high-end restaurants. The city also claims several cool boutique hotels, a wide range of bars and discos that host weekly gay parties, and a smaller but still potent supply of nightspots that glow pink seven nights a week. Melbourne is less a singular destination than a collection of distinctive neighborhoods, all of them connected quite handily by a clean and efficient system of trams and buses. Rather than focusing on the city's particular attractions and gay-oriented businesses, here's an introduction to the city by way of its enchanting neighborhoods. Keep in mind that although you'll find a gay scene in several parts of town, the neighborhoods south of the Yarra River tend to be known more for fashion and glitz, while those north of the river tend more toward funkiness and counterculturalism. Also note that "hotel" in Australia can refer to anything from a pub to a disco to an actual lodging (perhaps with a bar or disco); except where overnight accommodations are mentioned, assume that all the "hotels" in this article are nightspots. Central Melbourne The city's courtly business district contains soaring skyscrapers, tree-lined streets, and many of Melbourne's cultural attractions. Downtown's most distinctive feature is its many "laneways," little alleys lined with impossibly cute tearooms, boutiques, bars, and cafes. Some of them lead into enclosed arcades, where you'll find more of the same. There's plenty of great shopping to be had in Central Melbourne, especially on Collins and Little Collins streets, which are lined with shops specializing in haute couture and fine jewelry, and Bourke Street, where you'll find all the leading department stores, such as Myer and David Jones. Downtown contains the wealth of the city's top accommodations, including such stellar luxury options as the phenomenally cushy Park Hyatt Melbourne and the luxe Le Meridien at Rialto. Also consider staying at the Metropolitan Hotel, an uber-chic boutique property with sleek decor. Head to Federation Square, an architecturally dramatic complex containing the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (it shows arty films, often with gay themes). The compound also contains the sexy restaurant Chocolate Buddha, which serves sophisticated but affordable Pan-Asian cuisine. Another memorable downtown dining option is Ezard at Adelphi, helmed by celeb chef Teague Ezard, a champion of modern Aussie cooking. Just across the Yarra River, the glitzy Southgate district is dominated by modern skyscrapers containing dozens of upscale shops and restaurants, including the well-regarded Pure South, where you might sample slow-roasted wild duck with parsnip-and-vanilla puree, and a caramelized fig-port reduction. This part of town is a real culinary hotspot. Head a bit east of Southgate, along the river, and you'll come to the lush Royal Botanic Gardens, which make for some of the city's best strolling. St. Kilda One of the hippest neighborhoods around, St. Kilda developed as a swank seaside resort during the 19th century, fell on grim times during the mid-20th century, and has truly blossomed again over the past couple of decades. These days this colorful neighborhood is loaded with fun shops and cafes and anchored by Luna Park, a Coney Island-like beachside amusement park overlooking Port Phillip Bay. The St. Kilda Esplanade runs along the waterfront and is a terrific place for a walk or jog – don't miss the arts and crafts market held here on Sundays. There are two main drags worth scoping out: Right along Fitzroy Street, you'll find a slew of trendy hangouts and shops. Cafe Di Stasio serves superb Italian food in a romantic setting – it's a great special-occasion pick. Around the corner, Il Fornaio is a terrific little post-industrial space serving up espresso drinks and delicious breakfast and lunch fare, along with toothsome sweets. Consider staying next door at the 40-room Prince of Wales Hotel, which is one of the coolest and gay-friendliest properties in the city, with hip contemporary rooms. There's also great dining here at Circa, and a natty bar that draws a fashionable bunch. Although it's a bit bland-looking, the nearby Novotel St. Kilda has a terrific location right on St. Kilda's Esplanade and has reasonable rates. Another good bet is perhaps the slickest backpackers' hostel in the country, Base, a contemporary building with a red-glass facade and surprisingly comfy rooms. The other area for great window-shopping and dining is Acland Street. Sample the wonderful seafood fare at Claypots, which also has a branch in Collingwood, and then try nearby 7 Apples for sensational gelati in a city that's known for it. Down the block near the Esplanade, Soul Mama is famous for its fantastic, world-beat vegetarian fare and enormous deserts. This snazzy place with wonderful water views, too. Just a little east of St. Kilda, the rapidly gentrifying Balaclava neighborhood has several groovy cafes and restaurants, including gay-popular Boccone, a smart, minimalist trattoria where you might sample salmon carpaccio with ruby grapefruit and basil salad. And don't miss Glick's, a Jewish bakery famous for its bagels, pastries, latkes, and chopped herring salad. A hip breakfast and lunch spot with a sunny patio, Las serves such tantalizing fare as pancakes with blackberry coulis and mint. In the same area, on Saturday evenings you'll find great drag shows and dancing at the Greyhound Hotel. Prahran and South Yarra The stylish Prahran precinct has arguably the highest concentration of gay-oriented businesses in the city, most of them clustered around the intersection of Commercial Road and Chapel Street. Drop by the gay bookstore, Hares and Hyenas, for a browse. And don't miss strolling through Prahran Market, which pulses with gourmet food and produce stalls and can get quite cruisy, especially on weekend mornings. The neighborhood's favorite gay clubs are Diva, known for its campy drag shows; Xchange Hotel, which draws a cruisy, stand-and-model bunch to watch videos and mingle; and the Market Hotel, the city's top late-night gay disco. Amid several offbeat shops and eateries around the intersection of Greville and Izett streets, check out Candy Bar, which serves light food and hosts a gay party on Sunday nights. Just amble up Chapel Street from Prahran to South Yarra to find some of the most fashionable clothing and design shopping in the city, plus a slew of tony restaurants. Collingwood, Richmond, and Abbotsford North of the river and Central Melbourne, you'll find happening restaurants and swish lounges cropping up in Collingwood, especially around the junction of Smith and Gertrude streets. On Thursdays, the Q+A party at the Builders Arm Hotel draws a see-and-be-seen set of mostly under-35 gay guys. Continue a bit east of the neighborhood into the rough-and-tumble Richmond and Abbotsford areas, and you'll find several top gay hangouts, including the Glasshouse Hotel, a fab lesbian club that's especially popular on Saturdays, and the Peel, a youthful video bar and disco that draws plenty of young guys on the make. Leather-and-Levi's types favor the rollicking Laird Hotel. Trade, a cozy gay pub, draws an eclectic, mostly male neighborhood crowd. Head to the Star Hotel or DT's Hotel for crazy drag shows, which are arguably as beloved in Australia as anywhere in the world; and for steamier action, you'd be hard-pressed (so to speak) to find a better-kept and cleaner bathhouse than Wet on Wellington. Fitzroy In Fitzroy, the intersection of Brunswick and Johnston streets marks one of Melbourne's hipster meccas, buzzing with tapas and flamenco bars, Asian restaurants, wacky coffeehouses, and off-kilter boutiques and shops selling cutting-edge and retro clothing, underground music, and every imaginable kind of gift and knickknack. Most places are hidden behind vintage buildings with intentionally distressed facades, producing a somewhat shabby-chic look. Among the dozens of intriguing eateries along here, consider Red Tongue Cafe, a chic, contemporary space that's equal parts intimate and seductive; Fitz Cafe, a handsome spot with a pleasant sidewalk terrace and great globally inspired food; or the affordable Polly Bar, which serves up delicious small plates, ranging from barbecue venison to gnocchi. Carlton Just west of Fitzroy lies Melbourne's impressive Little Italy neighborhood, Carlton. The main drag, Lygon Street, contains scores of great restaurants and gourmet shops. Try Ti Amo, an old-world trattoria, for such classics as lamb osso buco. And definitely don't leave Carlton without stopping for gelati or pastries at Brunetti. And that's just a sampling of the great neighborhoods in this underrated city. Yes, it's a long way to Australia, and Sydney deserves attention, but don't come all this way without spending at least a few days in Melbourne, one of the world's great gay-friendly metropolises. Andrew Collins is the author of 10 travel guides, including Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA. Previous editions Northampton, Massachusetts